Monday 21st October – DAY SIX – Beijing – the arrival
Gradually, the blinds inched up the windows. Chris and I on the lower bunks watched the rural life, seeing orderly maze fields take form in the harsh rocky soil, only recently a desert. Rinze slept on upstairs.
Tree-lined streets looked, for all the world, like rural France!
There were mainly small market farms in townships or clusters of family homes perhaps, some light industry and some livestock. Saw a delightful sheep farm with brick winter housing featuring archways like some kind of fleecy monastery.
There were wind turbines, solar hot water systems on roofs and arrays of solar panels crept up the hills.
We had a Chinese restaurant car!
Our captain had given us food vouchers, one for early breakfast which I don’t think anyone could have attended unless they suffered from chronic insomnia, and lunch.
That consisted of a little salad of celery and wood fungus, stir fry veg and rice and a big meat ball. We had to buy our own drinks. They were out of tea by the time I got there at high noon.
Sat with Lian, Andrew and Kim, practicing my essential Chinese phrases. Thank you, I’m sorry, I don’t understand … the usual! They invited me to join them at the Temple of Heaven park the following morning at 06:00 for Tai Chi. That sounded lovely. Yeah. Nah. Not going to happen.
On arrival at Beijing Station we parted company easily and went our separate ways.
I did meet Holly as she tried to work out how to get out of the station and I tried to work out how to get into the subway. I found where to buy my ticket and when I turned to go I met a young girl from Finland with big, wide eyes. I guess mine were the same as we scanned the plaza for some English hint of what to do next. She couldn’t remember where she was going and couldn’t get the ticket until she knew what she was up to. We stared at the subway map on the wall. My hotel had given me instructions so I knew to look for DongSi on line 5.
‘Step by step,’ I told the young girl. ‘We’re not in any hurry. Plenty of time to get to where we’re going. It’s daylight.’ Remembering my encouraging Australian Camino friend I said, ‘You’re invincible. You can do it.’ ‘Yes,’ she said, ‘I can’. ‘You are resourceful,’ I added. ‘And will easily manage.’ ‘Yes,’ she said. ‘I will’. And we both took photos of the subway picture. (Of course, I was talking to myself!) She went to buy a ticket. I went to the subway entrance.
When the train stops
Sounds quiet
Movement within
Space extends
Memories made.
Six days
One hour
And four minutes
Went.
Head to Stage Eight – Beijing – here!
Nollaig, that sounds like a NIGHTMARE!
Thank you, Nollaig! Sounds like you did much the same trip? Yes, the Chinese waiting room and holding pen are at Erlian for FIVE HOURS! Were you in Chinese carriages or Russian? I think the days of bogie changes may be numbered as the Mongolians are building a wide gauge to match the Russian. (https://www.businessinsider.com.au/mongolia-extends-trans-border-railway-to-china-russia-2014-10) I agree, though, for the next trip I think it would be worth getting on and off the train for some tourist work, perhaps at Irkutsk, Ulan Bator and Ekaterinberg.
I was in the dreaded Chinese carraiges. The handle kept falling off the door from the inside, which meant I was locked in. One night I was bursting to go for a pee when the handle came off – had to keep banging for the guard to let me out !
Great read Vickoz. Wish I had done something similar on my trip. Travelled from the centre of England to Beijing on four trains (Leamington – London, Eurostar to Paris, Paris-Moscow, Moscow-Beijing). Strangest part was when we were all taken off the train for hours at the Mongolian-Chinese border (think it was Erlian). The beautiful classical music and all the false rose beds – some juxtaposition. I thought I was the only Irish person on the train until a guy from Belfast got on at Ulan Bator. Next time I would like to get off at Ekaterinberg and see the house where the Tsar and his family were executed in 1918.
the advertising you don’t know is encouraging people to donate blood for the people in need. The girl is the NO.1Female Pingpong Champion Ding Ning.
Brilliant, thanks, King. Glad it was a nice community service!
Xiexie
Remarkable! Epic! well done you’ve made it.
I read excitedly and i’m waiting for more!
I’ll translate it to Ella:-)
Best wishes from Moscow:-)
Spasibo, Tatiana! How wonderful you came along for the ride! Great to think of you in Moscow with your lucky students. I bet you are feeling cooler right now than I am here in humid Taiwan!
Wonderful write-up Victoria, I feel like I’ve experienced it with you! I think it’s a great way to use your time, experiencing the reality of the non-flight long distance travel options and ‘seeing the details’ – whether the loo goes straight to the tracks, how cabins are heated and managed etc – you’re doing great. Also really interesting to get a glimpse of how some of those landscapes that people don’t usually see are managed and the variety of lifestyles of your fellow travellers. Good luck with every connection, accomodation and language challenge – we’re there with you!
I do like you blog, Victoria. And your trip. It’s really fantastic! My English is not rich enough to express what I think about it. I feel like travelling myself!
Dear Begoña, I am very grateful you enjoy reading about my travels when you are such an experienced adventurer yourself! I’m very happy you feel inspired. I know you will have a great time where-ever you go – with your language skills and interest in other people – the world is yours!
I have finally got through it.. wow, that was epic
Page 6 best for me, i needed a sign of the step by step baby steps stepping stones
You rock our intrepid reporter
See you real soon in brissie
Thank you, Louiselle! Glad you managed to get through it. (Hope you were able to have a shower along the way.) Looking forward to landing in Port Brissie!
OMG! Feels like I wrote that first comment days ago…. (it was after page 1 not realising there were 6 days of blog…YOU MADE IT!!!!
Bloody hell, I was right there with you. Good job girl…show it how it’s done.
Thank you, MA! I am so grateful you managed to get through it all. I am trying to walk the talk but hadn’t realised how much fun it was going to be. Now I’m in hot, humid Taiwan it’s quite peculiar thinking I was looking at snow just a couple of weeks ago!
I knew Anton would be good company….all Anton’s are! 😉
I send best wishes and good luck to all Antons, from Mongolia to Melbourne, may they be happy, healthy and looking forward to eating apples from their own trees.
That was EPIC!!!! Now for the sea voyage. Can’t wait to read about that. Bon voyage, V! Xoxo
Thank you, Lucy, it’s fantastic knowing you’re there with me! Ahoy, Sailors!